Chanel's initial triumph was her innovative use of jersey, a machine knit material manufactured for her by the firm Rodier, and a fabric traditionally relegated to the manufacture of undergarments. Chanel's early wool jersey traveling suit consisted of a cardigan jacket and pleated skirt, paired with a low-belted pullover top. This ensemble, worn with low-heeled shoes, became the casual look in expensive women's wear. Prior to this, jersey tended to be used primarily in hosiery and for sportswear (tennis, golf, and beach attire). Considered too "ordinary" to be used in couture, it was also disliked by designers because the knit structure made it difficult to handle compared to woven fabrics.
Chanel's introduction of jersey to high-fashion worked well for two reasons: First, the war had caused a shortage of other materials, and second, women began desiring simpler and more practical clothes. Her fluid jersey suits and dresses were created for practicality and allowed for free movement. This was greatly appreciated at the time because women were working for the war effort as nurses, in civil service, and in factories. Their jobs involved physical activity and they had to ride trains, buses, and bicycles to get to work. They desired outfits that did not give way easily and could be put on without the help of servants.